Testing The Statim Thermal Fuse

We have greatly simplified this test for you, so you will get it right the very first time you try it.

WARNING: Be Sure Statim Is Turned Off And Unplugged From The Wall Before Performing This Test

(a) Remove Cassette & Set It Aside
(b) Remove 2 Screws from each side of the Statim and 3 screws on the back, holding cabinet in place
(c) Lift rear of panel and slide forward until cassette passage is cleared & Lift off
(d) Stand Housing on edge to the left of the unit and out of the way

You will need a volt ohm meter to perform this test. A cheap one will work just fine for this test. Set Your meter on 20k ohms. This is located in the area of the meter with the omega symbol ( )

Place one lead from the meter to the terminal (metal part) area located on the front/left side of the Statim Boiler as shown with the arrow in the figure below (It really does not matter which color lead you use in this test)

Place the other lead on the number 3 wire on located on the Statim PC board. The wire should be marked with the number 3. If the wire is not marked, simply start from the bottom and count up to the third wire as shown with the arrow in the figure below

Now look at your meter. If using an analog meter and the needle doesn't move (stays to the left - the reading is infinity), this means the Statim Thermal Fuse is bad and replacement is required. If it approaches zero, the Statim Thermal Fuse is good and is not the source of the problem you are experiencing

On a digital meter, if the reading is "1", the Statim Thermal Fuse is bad and replacement is required. If the reading approaches zero, the Statim Thermal fuse is good and not the source of your problem.